Deep facial cleansing — the KART method

Soak a cotton pad and wipe gently over the entire area to be treated, without applying pressure.

Salicylic acid and menthol: the salicylic acid penetrates the pore and begins to dissolve the blockage, whilst the menthol refreshes and soothes. The lotion reduces sebum production and visibly tightens the pores — this is what makes extraction easier ten minutes later.

Apply the exfoliator in a thick layer to clean skin, avoiding the eye area. Cover with cling film to create an occlusive seal — this is what opens up the pores. Leave on for 5 to 10 minutes, then rinse off with cold water.

Papaya enzymes and fruit acids: these dissolve the keratin that clogs the pores. Do not skip this step or reduce the application time: the comfort of the extraction process depends entirely on this.

Gloves must be worn. Work with a Uno spoon, area by area, on skin that is still warm. Extract open comedones, whiteheads and sebaceous plugs.

A rule that is not up for debate: if the contents do not come out, do not force it. Move on to the next area and resume at the next session. Forcing it will rupture the follicle wall — leading to inflammation, a mark, and then a pigmented spot that lasts for months.

Do not exceed 10 to 15 minutes of extraction in total, regardless of how much remains.

Soak a cotton pad and wipe over the entire treated area. Do not rinse.

The lotion dissolves any remaining blockages, tightens the pores opened by extraction and regulates sebum production. A complex of hydroxy acids and vitamins A, B, C and E.

As part of a home skincare routine, this product should be used only in the evening and should not be rinsed off — please make sure the client is aware of this if she is using it.

Apply topically to the treated areas or to the entire face, leave on for 2 to 3 minutes, then rinse off with cold water.

Redness whilst the product is on is to be expected and is normal — inform the client before applying, otherwise she may become concerned. Tomato lycopene and vitamin C: help regulate sebum, soothe and dry out areas that have just been opened.

If the skin has reacted strongly to the extraction, move straight on to the next mask.

Apply to clean skin and leave on for 10 to 15 minutes.

Calamine, aloe vera and witch hazel — this is the go-to mask after a spot extraction: it reduces the redness left by the tomato mask and rounds off the treatment. Available in 100 ml or 250 ml sizes, depending on the salon’s treatment frequency.

For enhanced results, do not rinse off the calamine. Place the moistened gauze on top, followed by the alginate mask, and leave on for 15 to 20 minutes. Alginate doesn’t work on its own: its role is to create an occlusion that greatly enhances the penetration of whatever lies beneath. When applied to bare skin, it serves only to provide the tightening effect during removal.

Alginate: two measures of powder to two measures of cold water, smooth consistency, sets in 6 to 10 minutes, removed in a single motion from the chin towards the forehead. Without alginate — simply rinse off the calamine.

Two options, depending on what your skin needs:

Vitamin C Cream (7127) — for oily, dehydrated skin: it tackles dryness, flakiness and blackheads all at once, and is quickly absorbed without leaving a film.

Lactic acid emulsion (7125) — for skin that feels tight or is reactive: Hygroplex complex, lactic acid, vitamins B5 and E, aloe vera.

Both are suitable as a make-up base, which is important if the client is heading back to work.

The final step of the treatment, without exception, even in winter and on overcast days.

The skin has just undergone an enzymatic peel and extraction: the stratum corneum has been thinned and the treated areas are prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. A mark that appears after a facial can take months to fade.

Moisturising Lotion SPF50 (6409) — colourless, for reactive skin or clients who do not want coverage.
BB Cream Lite SPF50 (6410) — light coverage: it conceals post-extraction redness and ensures the client leaves the salon looking presentable. In practice, this is the one that sells.